The World of Daruma Masamune: A Traditional Brewery and the Flavors of Time

• Table of Contents
• Established in 1835 - The Popularity of Television Brings Crisis and Opportunity
• The Unknown Truth about Aged Sake: The Secret of "Umami"
• The Depth of Aged Sake: Crafted by Artisans at Room Temperature
• A Luxurious Taste-Test Based on Knowledge of Aged Sake
• A Look Back at History Through an Incredible Display of Aged Sake
• Bringing Daruma Masamune and Brewing Culture Closer

Established in 1835 - The Popularity of Television Brings Crisis and Opportunity

Shiraki Tsunesuke Shoten is a sake brewery founded in 1835. The area where the brewery is located is a rural area irrigated by the Mugi River, a branch of the Nagara River. The area is blessed with water, rice, and a climate with large temperature differences that are suited for sake brewing. Shiraki Tsunesuke Shoten has operated the brewery in the same location for the past 190 years.

A turning point arrived in the late 1950s when it was decided that Tokyo would host the Olympics and television began to become more common. Sales of sake, which had been loved mainly by locals, began to gradually decline.

It all started with TV commercials from major sake breweries. As more options became available and distribution grew, Japanese sake, a drink that was naturally part of daily life, began to decline in sales.

Mr. Yoshiji, father of the current head brewer Shigeri Shiraki, was the first to express concern about this situation.

One day, Mr. Yoshiji found several forgotten 1.8L bottles in a corner of the warehouse. He cautiously opened the bottles and poured the liquid into a glass, becoming struck by the beautiful and mysterious color of the sake.

The glistening golden sake was a masterpiece that was smooth and had an enhanced rich flavor. Convinced that this was a sake with unique potential, he decided to research aged sake.

However, at the time, people around him would look at him coldly, making comments such as, "You're holding onto the sake you make instead of selling it?" or "Colored sake? 

That doesn’t make sense." For Shigeri, who was a child at the time, it remains a slightly bitter memory.

Nevertheless, Shigeri, who guided us around the brewery, stated, "Sometimes people would say, 'It's just sake that came about accidentally, isn't it?’ But our aged sake is something that my father has been making since 1971 with the conviction of succeeding with aged sake,'" she said in a dignified tone with a smile.

Aged sake brewing began from a miraculous discovery. Let’s unravel the history of how it transitioned into its current form.

The Unknown Truth about Aged Sake: The Secret of "Umami"

The first discovery in Mr. Yoshiji’s research was in ancient documents. These documents recorded that a culture of “koshu (old sake)" did indeed exist in Japan between the Kamakura period and Edo period (around 1185 to 1868).

For example, the expression, “old sake with a richness as if drawn from blood itself,” is found in a letter by Nichiren Shonin, a prominent monk and influential religious leader in the Kamakura period. This expression brings to mind an aged sake as red as human blood and with a strong character.

However, although he was able to confirm the existence of aged sake, none of the documents described how to make it. So Mr. Yoshiji ventured into the process of aged sake brewing while relying only on the few documents he had and his own imagination.

"sake that appeared as if drawn from blood may have had a reddish hue."

"At the time, rice polishing technology wouldn’t have been developed yet, so the rice hulls were probably used as is."

"In the days before refrigerators, the sake would have been stored at room temperature."

Through repeated hypothesis and research, red sake was discovered to be created from the "Maillard reaction" that occurs when there is an abundance of amino acids and sugars. The Maillard reaction, which occurs during long fermentation, was the very essence of "aging" in sake.

Since 1971, they have continued to brew various types of sake in small batches, such as sweet junmai sake and dry ginjo sake, and observed the aging process over the years.

Nowadays, the brewery is well-known for their aged sake, but at the time, it was a bold new endeavor. The tax office instructed them to quickly sell the sake without letting it age and pay the liquor tax, and they were often met with cold looks from those around them who said, "It's absurd to hold onto sake without selling it."

The first people to lend a hand to Mr. Yoshiji’s endeavor were the president of a local bank and buyers at a department store. Thanks to their recognition of its value, the idea of ​​"aged sake" gradually spread, and before long, Daruma Masamune became synonymous with aged sake.

There are a wide variety of products are available, including "Mirai e," a sake that “gifts time” and is to be enjoyed 20 years after it has been brewed, vintage aged sake with flavors that change with each year of aging, and even umeshu (plum wine) brewed from aged sake.

The sake brewed when the journey into researching aging first began continues to quietly slumber in the brewery to this day. It is truly the culmination of wisdom and conviction woven across time. The “rich flavors of time” contained in a single drop of aged sake softly tells their story.

The Depth of Aged Sake: Crafted by Artisans at Room Temperature

Thanks to Mr. Yoshiji’s research, a new form of sake known as "aged sake" was established. Currently, Shiraki Tsunesuke Shoten is accepting brewery tour requests so that visitors can get a closer look at aged sake and experience sake brewing.

The brewery, where the rich aroma of sake is produced, offers a glimpse into the journey through countless studies and sake brewing traditions that have been handed down since 1835.

The key to sake brewing is temperature control in the brewery. After the sake is placed into the tanks, monitoring the fermentation progress and regulating the temperature is the job of the toji (master brewer) who oversees the brewery. Indispensable to this job are the countless hoses that run through the tanks.

The trick to brewing sake at room temperatures without relying on air conditioning or heating is to regulate the progress of fermentation by adding cold water in summer and warm water in winter. Even in harsh winters, cold water may be added if it is determined that the fermentation is progressing too much.

Making koji (malted rice) is also a crucial part of the brewery's operations. Under Ms. Shigeri’s direction, it is prepared by hand over a period of two days. Koji starter is sprinkled over steamed rice, which is then loosened and stirred repeatedly to slowly cultivate the koji mold.

This koji is born in a small room known as the koji room. Life quietly grows with vitality in a space always kept at around 30 degrees Celsius unaffected by the outside air.

On the tour, you will see an impressive row of brewing tanks in the back of the brewery. Two to three tanks are used per year for aging, while a variety of other sakes are carefully brewed, including Mirai e, which allows you to observe the aging process at home, and umeshu.

"To mature, it simply needs to be left alone," Ms. Shigeri stated quietly.

After undergoing heat treatment and being transferred to a tank, the leaven and enzymes will have finished their work. Afterwards, it is important to simply "wait" while avoiding contact with air. If your urge to monitor it is too strong, then you’ll end up opening the tank lid and risk introducing saprophytic and lactic acid bacteria.

The optimal balance of amino acids and sugars derived from years of experience, the ratio of exposure to the air, and the progression of aging... Everything has been calculated thoroughly, and all that's left to do is to let time take its course.

The aged sake Daruma Masamune, quietly brewed in thai manner, can be enjoyed through a tasting at the end of the tour, allowing you to experience its deep flavor. 

A Luxurious Taste-Test Based on Knowledge of Aged Sake

What marks the end of the brewery tour is the long-awaited sake tasting experience. The details may vary depending on the tour course, but you’ll be able to compare the taste of Daruma Masamune sake aged for different lengths of time.

The aged sake you can taste here is not simply described by numbers such as "3 years" or "5 years." Shiraki Tsunesuke Shoten's Daruma Masamune is an original drop that is a unique blend of multiple aged sakes, aged for "more than 3 years" and "more than 5 years."

Therefore, for example, letting a 3-year-old sake sit longer doesn’t mean it will turn into a 10-year-old aged sake. In addition to the time it takes to mature, the skills and design concepts of the master brewers are also woven into the process.

During this tour, we tasted three, five, and 20-year aged sakes, each aged over different lengths of time.

3-Year Aged Sake: A Light, Wafting Aroma

Following Ms. Shigeri's recommendation, I started with a sip of a "young sake." As I brought the glass close to my face, a sweet, light aroma rose up and tickled my nose.

When you take a sip, a savory flavor fills your mouth, then is followed by a gradual sweetness.

Its light, mellow taste makes it a perfect pairing with any dish. Its gentleness makes it easy to enjoy even for those trying aged sake for the first time.

Its transparent honey-like color makes it feel special and is a great gift.

5-Year Aged Sake: Rich and Velvety

Next we tried the "5-Year Aged Sake," a blend of sakes aged for over five years. This deep amber sake has a subtle aroma reminiscent of spices, and has a deep sweetness like dark chocolate when consumed.

The flavor is mellow, yet clean and refreshing. It has a rich, well-balanced taste reminiscent of Shaoxing wine, and leaves a lingering aftertaste.

It goes well with Chinese food and other strong-flavored dishes, and has plenty of potential as a drink to accompany your meal. Its thick, smooth taste will have you reaching for another sip before you even realize it.

20-Year Aged Sake: Deep, Rich, and Sweet

The last drink we tried was the "20-Year Aged Sake," a blend of four types of sake that have been aged for over 20 years. Its deep amber color is impressive, and at a glance you can tell how its depth has accumulated over time.

One sip and you'll be surprised by a mellow sweetness that you wouldn’t imagine from its dark appearance. "This isn't something that became sweet after being aged for many years, but was originally brewed with the intention of being a 'sweet sake'," says Shigeri.

Its aroma reminiscent of brown sugar and the alcohol that slowly dissolves in your mouth are so pleasant that you will want to drink it again and again. Even when paired with fatty dishes, it melts effortlessly in the mouth and creates a rich, lingering aftertaste.

A Look Back at History Through an Incredible Display of Aged Sake

At the direct sales shop next to the brewery, you can browse and purchase the aforementioned aged sakes, tasting sets, junmai sake, and more.

Despite the aging period, all of Shiraki Tsunesuke Shoten's aged sakes are available at affordable prices.

They also sell small 50ml and 180ml bottles, so even those who are trying aged sake for the first time can visit the store with peace of mind.

In addition, the timeline of aged sake displayed on the wall represents the unique path Shiraki Tsunesuke Shoten has taken. The sight of rows of aged sake brewed over the years from the start of the brewery’s research into aged sake to the present day is truly impressive.

Rather than simply being on display, why not view it as a testament to the time that Shiraki Tsunesuke Shoten has spent building their legacy?

The direct sales shop is open every day except Sundays from 9:30 to 16:30 and can be visited without a reservation. At the entrance, a large Daruma doll quietly welcomes visitors with warmth and familiarity.

Daruma Masamune

61 Kadoyamon , Gifu City, Gifu Prefecture, 501-2528

Founded in 1835, the same year that historical figures Sakamoto Ryoma and Atsuhime were born, Shiraki Kosuke Shoten is a long-established sake brewery that has been producing sake in Gifu for generations. Today, Daruma Masamune is renowned as an aged sake, but according to Shigeri Shiraki, the current seventh-generation brewer, it was still relatively unknown when she was young. “It was my father who first recognized the potential of aged sake,” Shiraki explains. “After discovering a forgotten bottle in a corner of the brewery that had aged for several years, he was amazed by its rich flavor. That moment inspired him to begin crafting aged sake intentionally.” At the time, the concept of aging sake was unfamiliar, and Shiraki’s father faced criticism for storing sake instead of selling it. However, through years of research, he confirmed that aged sake is naturally rich in sugars and amino acids. By studying historical records and refining the aging process, the family established the signature Daruma Masamune aged sake. Aging sake doesn’t simply mean leaving it untouched. Every step of the process requires expertise, from carefully adjusting fermentation to meticulously controlling temperature and humidity to ensure the sake develops its signature deep flavor. For those curious to learn more, the brewery offers tasting experiences by reservation through their website. Visitors can explore the sake-making process, hear behind-the-scenes stories, and compare the distinct flavors of aged sake by vintage. The taste of the sake evolves with each passing year, and the brewery’s staff provides personalized recommendations on the best food pairings and serving methods for each vintage. After the tasting, guests can browse the brewery shop, where aged sake crafted with exceptional care is available for purchase. Many visitors enjoy selecting a sake from their birth year or choosing a bottle as a thoughtful gift. Why not step into the world of aged sake and discover its deep, complex flavors?

Bringing Daruma Masamune and Brewing Culture Closer

The brewery is dotted with ingenuity and creativity that makes aged sake, a form of Japanese sake, feel more familiar to visitors.

You can experience the tradition of aged sake from various angles, such as information on the year's events and entertainment written on the brewing tanks, POP displays showcasing profiles of Shigeri and Mr. Yoshiji around the shop, and a list of dishes that pair well with the sake.

What is particularly impressive is that by touring the brewery, you can gain a deeper understanding of the hard work, research, and fermentation process that goes into completing Daruma Masamune and other aged sakes.

The strong desire to create aged sake and the power of fermentation derived from microorganisms constantly at work. You can sense how these two things have come together to create the world of matured aged sake from Shiraki Tsunesuke Shoten.

Shiraki Tsunesuke Shoten is about a 50-minute bus ride from JR Gifu Station. Get off at the Mochi bus stop and walk about 10 minutes along the path through the rice paddies to arrive at the brewery.

How about a trip to Gifu, where you can visit a sake brewery while enjoying the Gifu breeze in a nostalgic rural landscape just outside the city?